Showing posts with label ancient jewellery. Show all posts
Showing posts with label ancient jewellery. Show all posts

Saturday, February 8, 2014

If I forget Jerusalem...



My grandfather on my mother’s side was a master jeweler from a long line of jewelers and watchmakers. Recently I mentioned this fact to two of my close girlfriends.
Their reaction was unexpected:  “Really?
You never told me that… Now it’s clear!” Their respect for me as a jeweler and designer took a sharp jump upward… but why? 
 

It was odd that I never considered the possibility that my mother’s father, Judah Leib Kugel, in some way passed down to me his artistic taste, 

imagination, or skill in working with his hands.
I do remember, though, how he from Minsk moved in with us when we lived in Vilnius, Lithuania. He brought many religious books with him. He knew a lot about Judaism and often prayed. A quiet man, he didn’t care about everyday trivia, and he didn’t get upset either. He was just happy that the synagogue was close to our house, making it easy for him to reach it.  

Grandfather Judah Leib died many years ago, while I was still a child. He left us a small group of objects he had created, hand-worked in gold and silver. I remember well the little silver figurines – two elephants and a tiny gun. My mother kept them in a special place, and as children we liked to look at them.   

In addition, there were two pendants in the shape of a Magen David (Star of David). One was gold, worked in a classical style. The other was silver, in the form of a coin, which included a remarkable amount of detail: miniature pictures, engravings and inscriptions in Hebrew. My child-level appreciation did not see any special beauty in them, and I never had a desire to wear them.  

Mum often said over the years that she would give these pendants to me and my brother. Eventually she gave him the gold pendant, and the silver coin-pendant came to me.   

If she had switched her decision, I wouldn’t be telling this story. Nor would I have created this echo of my grandfather’s own work from the remote past….  

By today's standards, the pendant would not qualify as a beautiful work of art. It’s crammed with tiny elements which cannot be appreciated except perhaps under a magnifying glass. There is a great deal of old-fashioned Hebrew writing, which even many Jews today cannot understand.   

But that’s the point! I don’t exactly know who was the jeweller, who made this pendant, but he had captured a time in Jewish history that is now gone, never to return – and he showed remarkable metalworking skill in adding fascinating details… on both sides of the pendant.

As if that weren’t enough, I saw my own connection to Israel expressed in my grandfather’s pendant… almost like a prophecy that he left for our family to fulfill 

(For those who understand Hebrew but have a hard time reading the inscriptions, my daughter Julia, who is educated in Judaism, has written them out.)
These wonderful engravings had obviously been made before I was born – not to mention before the state of Israel was born. Yet here I am today, living out my grandfather’s vision!  

I had to express this beautiful truth – make it more accessible, more modern, more my own. My Judaica collection needed a unique addition: a ring that reproduces this pendant with all its amazing detail.   

But how could I make a replica of the pendant without defacing and damaging it? The tiny details were an almost impossible challenge. 

Sergey, a master at making ring molds, took up the challenge with pleasure. And Hannah, who works in his workshop, tried different injector pressures until they got it right.   

I examined the wax models with a magnifying lens. For a reference point I chose the hat of the plowman. If it was visible, the wax model was acceptable.  

The tiny hat was visible on 2 models out of 10.  I had it cast in silver. It turned out to be such an exact copy that it was possible to read all the intricate Hebrew inscriptions.  
Now I moved to designing a ring. The challenge of making both sides of this pendant visible on a ring was difficult, to say the least. But I discovered it was not the first time someone had tried it.  

In a book that surveyed “7000 years of jewelry art,” such rings were designed in 600 B.C. The strategy of the ancient jewelry designers was to make the top plate able to flip over, so that both sides could be viewed as desired. It’s a clever trick that makes great sense.
Here is the finished ring. I wear it with pleasure. 

I remember how pleased my grandfather was, so many years ago, the
 the first time that I as a young child wanted to show respect for a Torah  (in Russian 
translation).

  I think that he would be glad to see how his legacy has been put to use.
(For those who understand Hebrew but have a hard time reading the inscriptions, my daughter Julia, who is educated in Judaism, has written them out.)  

Side One: The Longing for the Land. A group of bearded Jews prays at the Western Wall, most in Middle-Eastern garb with turbans, with one dressed like a Western gentleman in tophat and cape. The prayer area is portrayed as it was under Muslim rule, with brick barriers that left only a small section of the Wall open for Jews.   

The Hebrew inscription quotes two Bible verses: “If I forget you, Jerusalem, may my right hand forget her skill” (Psalm 137:5), and, “Surely Your servants find pleasure in her stones, and feel pity for her dust” (Psalm 102:14).  

אִם אֶשְׁכָּחֵךְ יְרוּשָׁלִָם תִּשְׁכַּח יְמִינִי 

כי רצו עבדיך את אבניה ואת עפרה יחננו 

 Arranged between the points of the star is this promise: “For I will turn their mourning into joy, and will comfort them and give them joy for their sorrow” (Jeremiah 31:13). 

וְהָפַכְתִּי אֶבְלָם לְשָׂשׂוֹן וְנִחַמְתִּים וְשִׂמַּחְתִּים מִיגוֹנָם  
Side Two: The Vision for the Land. In the 19th-century style of farming, a plowman follows his plough and women harvest a wheat field, as the sun rises over the mountains.  
The Hebrew over the sunrise is a well-known prophecy calling the Jews back to Israel: “Rise, shine, for your light has come” (Isaiah 60:1). 
קוּמִי אוֹרִי, כִּי בָא אוֹרֵךְ  
The inscription under the workers is another one: “The plowman will overtake the reaper, and the treader of grapes him who sows seed” (Amos 9:13).  
וְנִגַּשׁ חוֹרֵשׁ בַּקֹּצֵר, וְדֹרֵךְ עֲנָבִים בְּמֹשֵׁךְ הַזָּרַע  
In the outer circle, this call runs across the top: “Lift up a standard toward Zion! Seek refuge, do not stand still” (Jeremiah 4:6);  
שְׂאוּ-נֵס צִיּוֹנָה, הָעִיזוּ אַל-תַּעֲמֹדוּ  
…and this declaration along the bottom: “And the ransomed of the Lord will return and come to Zion with singing” (Isaiah 35:10). 
ופדויי יהוה ישובון, ובאו ציון ברינה  
 

 
 

Wednesday, July 18, 2012

Historical research: earrings worn by the Biblical Rebecca


The history of jewelry has interested me since I started to make jewelry art.

Recently, re-reading a Torah translation in Russian, I read that when Abraham sent his servant back to his native land to find a wife for his son Isaac, he sent him with some valuable gifts for the future bride. And when the servant met Rebecca (who became Isaac’s wife), he gave her gold bracelets weighing 10 shekels, and gold earrings weighing one-half a shekel. The weight of one shekel in those times was 14 grams. So each earring contained 7 grams of gold.

Monday, January 2, 2012

The History of Rings

Discoveries made between 1922 and 1934 in ancient Babylonia (Iraq) proved the
existence of Finger Rings from about 2500 BC.

On the picture from well known book "7000 years of jewelry "
Finger rings inlaid with lapis lazuli within a fine scale pattern of gold cells.
During the Medieval period is when rings became especially popular. All classes of people wore rings from the poorest to the richest. Rings were typically made of iron, copper, silver, and gold. The material of the ring worn usually indicated the class of the wearer. It wasn't until around the 14th century that faceted jewels appeared in rings.

Some cultures have rings typically associated with them. Cultures such as Native Americans use silver and turquoise in their jewelry. Early Christians used the Greek symbol, the Icthus, which resembles a fish.

One of the best known is the Irish Claddagh that also has an intriguing story attached to it. Richard Joyce was among the crew of a fishing boat from the village of Claddagh, Ireland that was captured, he was to have been married that very same week. During slavery Richard Joyce was put to the trade of Goldsmith-ing. Through the years of capture neither married. Richard Joyce created a ring for his love with a heart and two hands.  After Joyce escaped capture, he returned to the village of Claddagh and was overjoyed to see his love again and to know she had never married. She always knew he would return to her. He gave her the ring that has become known as the Claddagh ring. If the Claddagh is worn on the right hand with the crown inward (toward the wrist) the heart is not yet committed. If it is worn on the right hand with the crown turned outward the wearer is committed to someone. Finally if it is worn on the left hand with the crown outward it means "Let our love and friendship reign forever,

Wednesday, November 16, 2011

Jewelry - the most conservative art form in the world

Recently I received a wonderful gift: an album called “7000 Years of Jewelry,” edited by Hugh Tait.
“The aim of this book is to bring together jewelry from all the major phases of man’s history” – said Tait in the preface of his book. And he really does that.
Tait’s collection is a chronicle of Jewelry Art through history, from the most ancient known civilizations in Mesopotamia (today’s Iraq) and Egypt, up until today. The book entries are written by the curators of archeological exhibits that are on display in British museums, with a lot of photos from every period of jewelry-making.

I’ll need a lot more time to study this book (and it’s a lovely project for me to look forward to), but I’ve already gotten a first impression that is definitely clear: with more than a few of the pieces, it’s difficult to tell whether they were made today, or thousands of years ago…

Friday, July 8, 2011

Ancient jewelry of Middle East

The art of jewelry has influenced many cultures. Traditionally, jewelry displays distinctive character, presents intense artistic images, and carries rich cultural assets through plasticity and expression. The language of jewelry is fairly complex and hard to interpret. Just like popular ancient languages that dominated in certain historic periods, such as Aramaic,

Tuesday, June 7, 2011

A Short History of Bracelets

The earliest known bracelets hark back to 2500 BC, worn by the ancient Sumerians of Southern Mesopotamia. Bracelets, along with other jewelry like anklets, earrings, necklaces, and rings, were worn by the women to show off the wealth of their husbands. As such, they were a symbol of status - much like some jewelry is to this day. They often had religious connotations in addition to the perception of wealth and adornment. Bracelets were enjoyed for many centuries after this time but emerged as highly coveted pieces of jewelry in Ancient Egypt in 2000 BC.

Thursday, March 17, 2011

Elegance in ancient world

Roman women were highly regarded throughout the ancient world for their elegance and good taste. Because their clothing was relatively uniform, they distinguished themselves from each other via elaborate, plaited hairstyles and finely crafted, pounded metal jewelry .
One of the most recognizable forms of adornment from the Roman world is the snake bracelet. Romans believed that the snakes represented good luck and brought prosperity to wearers. Try making a snake bracelet for yourself and see what kind of luck it brings you.
http://www.artleah/com